Where US-83 Crosses the Niobrara: A Sandhills Weekend Nobody Talks About

Valentine, Nebraska population 2,700 makes its living from cattle ranching and the summer tourists who float the Niobrara River. The winter tourists don't exist, which means you get the place to yourself if you show up in October or May.

The Niobrara cuts east through the Sandhills here, creating a green canyon through an ocean of grass. Drive west on Highway 20, then north on the gravel roads that lead to Smith Falls State Park. The 63-foot waterfall drops into a clear pool. You reach it by canoe or kayak from the park's boat ramp, a two-mile paddle upstream. Rent boats in Valentine at Dryland Aquatics on Main Street. They'll shuttle you and give you a map that shows where the springs feed into the river.

The state park charges $8 per vehicle. You can also hike in from the parking lot, three-quarters of a mile on a trail that follows the south bank. Go early. By noon in summer, the place fills with inner tubes and coolers.

Back in town, eat breakfast at the Peppermill. The café occupies a storefront on Main Street with a counter and eight tables. Order the cinnamon roll, which arrives warm and covers the entire plate. The local ranchers sit at the counter and talk cattle prices. The coffee's hot and they pour it without asking.

Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge sits three miles east of Valentine. The refuge maintains a bison herd that grazes the same hills their ancestors roamed. Drive the loop road at dawn or dusk. The bison gather near the watering holes. Pull over and watch them. They don't care about your schedule.

Stay at the Motel 6 or camp at the state recreation area four miles south of town. The campground sits on a reservoir where you can fish for bass and catfish. Sites cost $20 and include electric hookups.

You'll drive past a lot of nothing to reach Valentine. That's the point. US-83 runs north from Interstate 80 through 140 miles of sandhills and ranch gates. The grass rolls like ocean swells. You won't see another car for 20 minutes at a time. The radio fades to static, then picks up a station from three states away.

Valentine works for a long weekend. Arrive Friday evening, spend Saturday on the river, Sunday morning at the refuge. You'll put 400 miles on the car round-trip from Lincoln, 275 from Rapid City. Pack a cooler. The next grocery store after Valentine sits 70 miles east.