Davis, West Virginia: The Weekend Road Trip Where the Water Runs Black

If you want a weekend road trip with a little scenery and almost no logistical drama, point the car toward Davis, West Virginia. It’s a small mountain town tucked along Route 32, with enough coffee, pizza, and trail access to keep you busy without turning the trip into a spreadsheet.

Start at Blackwater Falls State Park, just outside town. Park in the main lot by the lodge and overlook area; from there, it’s a short walk down a staircase to the falls. Wear shoes with actual grip, not the charming sneakers you bought because they looked good in airport lighting. The falls drop over dark sandstone into the Blackwater River, and the whole scene is framed by spruce and hardwood forest.

Here’s the surprise: the water really does look black. It isn’t pollution or some dramatic Appalachian curse. The river gets its color from tannins released by fallen hemlock and red spruce needles, much like tea steeping in a cup. On a bright day, the water can look nearly root beer-brown. Nature is weird and occasionally hungry.

After the park, head into Davis and find a legal street spot or use the public parking near the town’s small downtown blocks. Leave the car there and walk. The town is compact, which is exactly what you want after a morning of stairs and mountain roads.

For dinner, go to Sirianni’s Cafe and order a pizza to share, plus a salad if you’re pretending to be responsible. The pizza is the kind of hot, unfussy food that tastes especially good after being outside all day. If there’s a wait, don’t panic; this is mountain-town timing, not airport timing. Grab a drink and let the evening unfold.

Spend the next morning on a short trail in the park or drive a little farther along Route 32 toward Canaan Valley. Pull over only where it’s legal and visible—these roads curve like they have personal grievances. Bring cash, a light jacket, and enough time to stop when the forest suddenly opens up. Davis is not trying to impress you. That’s why it works.