Cabbage Wedges That Get Crisp at the Edges

Buy a firm green cabbage with tight leaves, heavy for its size, and leave the sad, loose-headed specimens behind. You want one that feels like a bowling ball wearing a vegetable costume. This is the weeknight dish I make when the refrigerator contains half a cabbage and everyone is pretending not to notice.

Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Put a large cast-iron skillet inside while it heats. Yes, the skillet goes in cold with the oven. Cast iron is excellent at holding heat, which is exactly what cabbage needs if you want browned edges instead of steamed surrender.

Cut the cabbage into thick wedges—about an inch and a half—keeping the core attached so the leaves don’t scatter like confetti. Rub both sides with olive oil, then season generously with salt, black pepper, and a pinch of smoked paprika. When the pan is hot, carefully lay in the wedges. You should hear an immediate, confident sizzle. Roast for 20 minutes, flip, and roast another 10 to 15, until the edges are nearly black and the centers are tender enough for a fork.

Here’s what happens if you skip preheating the pan: the cabbage slowly releases water, the skillet never gets properly hot, and you end up with pale, floppy wedges that taste like boiled lunch. Not dangerous. Just deeply disappointing. Also, don’t crowd the pan. If the wedges are touching, use two pans or work in batches. Vegetables need personal space.

While the cabbage cooks, stir together two tablespoons of melted butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one small grated garlic clove. When the wedges come out, spoon this over them. The butter slips into the curled leaves, the lemon wakes up the sweetness, and the garlic smells like you planned dinner hours ago.

Serve the cabbage with fried eggs, sausages, roasted chicken, or a pile of white beans. It should be bronzed and crisp at the edges, soft and almost creamy in the middle, with a sweet cabbage smell underneath the smoky seasoning. Finish with grated Parmesan or toasted breadcrumbs if you have them. I usually do. Cabbage can take a little applause.